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ACRONYM x NIKE
[COOPERATION RETROSPECTIVE]
[COOPERATION RETROSPECTIVE]
ACRONYM x NIKE
[Cooperation retrospective]
[Cooperation retrospective]
Founded: 1994.
Founders: Errolson Hugh, Michaela Sachenbacher.
Headquarter: Berlin.
Founders: Errolson Hugh, Michaela Sachenbacher.
Headquarter: Berlin.
The brand that spawned a whole subculture in modern fashion based on the intersection of design and technology was founded by partners Errolson Hugh and Michaela Sachenbacher in 1994. After moving from Toronto to Munich, Errolson and Michaela launched their design Agency and before the release of their own line had time to work with major outdoor and snowboard companies, including Burton Snowboards, W. L. Gore and Associates, iDiom. In 1999, the company was reorganized, and ACRONYM began to produce clothing under its own brand.
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The relation between science fiction and technological development, and how that affects society, is deeply related to ACRONYM's aesthetic. We founded the company in 1999 as a legal entity and started doing the basic groundwork for what would become the brand. Designing the first product took us about two years and in 2002 the first product was released, which was called "Kit 1": one jacket, one bag, instructions, software disc and music disc... we didn't have the money to make a whole collection, so we decided to put all the ideas into this little set that contains the brand's DNA. And this is still the case. 3A – 1 of the set is still our main bag design.
ACRONYM is a small, but already well-known brand. When creating a product, the philosophy of the team is based on several basic working principles: practical ergonomics, innovative design, quality of tailoring and obsessive attention to detail. Limited production and high price for the products is justified by the use of top materials, fabrics, processing methods, technologies, exclusive functional elements and own patent developments, although this does not prevent new collections from flying off the site within 5 minutes moment of release. As Errolson says: "I realize that it is easier to manage a small company – you have more space to maneuver."
Mr. Hugh has long been a fan of NIKE products and in his interviews often mentions that his favorite models are Flyknit Racer and Air Sock Racer. After the invitation from the NIKE CEO Mark Parker to work on the revival of the ACG line under NIKELAB, Errolson successfully established himself as a designer among the swoosh fans. The next stage was cooperation with the entire ACRNM team to implement the brand's ideas and concepts within the framework of close work on the footwear line. But, as it turned out, not all fans were ready for the revolutionary decisions of Berlin's innovators in their favorite models of sneakers.
Release: September 2015.
The first result of cooperation in 2015 caused a big wave of discussion among the audience. On the basis of the Lunar Force 1 model, Mr. Hugh, in his usual manner to rethink things in favor of the function without losing shape, completely changed the appearance of the legendary silhouette. Sneakers came in three colors using leather, suede and canvas as the main materials, as well as vacuum technology VAC TECH on the heel of the model. The main object of debate was the front zipper on the edge of the lacing, which is destructive and provocative design element that gave rise to heated discussions on its aesthetics and attitude to the classic silhouette.
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Instead of trying to incorporate a new element into an existing design, we thought about making it as clear as possible. It definitely meant the invasion of the silhouette. We left it there as an antithesis, so the ends of the zippers stick out from above, from below and it looks so damp.
Right at the first meeting with NIKE, we said, "You know, we're not just going to give these sneakers a different color?" Fortunately, their answer was, "Absolutely, that's why you're here." They really understood and supported us, and we did. I didn't think about the negative because we were too busy with our vision.
At some point in the network leaked the first pictures, people went crazy, and it seemed that now it is the most hated shoe of all time. It was interesting to see which people wore them and which hated.
Right at the first meeting with NIKE, we said, "You know, we're not just going to give these sneakers a different color?" Fortunately, their answer was, "Absolutely, that's why you're here." They really understood and supported us, and we did. I didn't think about the negative because we were too busy with our vision.
At some point in the network leaked the first pictures, people went crazy, and it seemed that now it is the most hated shoe of all time. It was interesting to see which people wore them and which hated.
As time passed, people began to get used to destructive design. Some designers began to be inspired by the concept of zippers, add it to their designs. The history of evolution knows the basic model of human behavior: rejection - discussion - acceptance. The same thing happened with this release, which was later recognized as the top 5 best designs of the Air Force 1 model.
Release: September 2016.
In 2016, the collaboration of ACRONYM x NIKE Air Presto Mid stormed sneaker culture, thanks to its dramatic transformation into a classic "t-shirt for feet." According to Errolson, the cooperation began with the fact that he carefully looked at the failed and forgotten prototypes of Air Presto.
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We have adopted a functional, deconstructive approach using ACRNM concepts and materials. This required a careful evolution of the simplicity of the original shoe into a more sophisticated design. Air Presto, look almost like slippers, and the idea of making the mid-height version look illogical. The middle silhouette usually gives support and stability. We wanted to keep the initial feeling of lightness of the shoes, but with additional functionality.
Zipper was a very big design problem and required a few iterations before reaching the rapid simultaneous tension. Although the overall shoe design was completed in three hours, testing the thrust distance, angle, and slider type took six attempts. The final result maintains a clean silhouette by having a visible pull cord and zippers extending beyond the profile of the shoe. Additional support and breathability is provided by the leather in the heel, mesh 3D collar and almost see through mesh on the front of the foot.
Three colors were determined based on the ACRONYM philosophy of option for each owner. The RedLava/Volt color variation determines the maximum luminosity of personality, while the Olive/Black/White combination represents versatility. Bamboo/Black coloring is a classic, two-tone ACRONYM style.
Last but not least, the geometric U-shaped silhouette near the toe of the Shoe refers to the kinesiological tape-a simple but powerful tool for support and rehabilitation. "We knew the shoes were cool and we liked them. However, we did not know that there would be such a stir. It was interesting to see such a great response to such a radical approach to design."
The collection of ACRONYM x NIKELAB AIR PRESTO MID took the first place in the "Sneakers of the year: 2016" nomination in several versions of the most authoritative industry media.
Functionality is always a strong point of ACRONYM, but this release also marked the brand's courage in experimenting with color. The bright acid coloring was the beginning of new concepts both in cooperation with NIKE, and in the main line of ACRNM.
Release: February 2017.
According to unconfirmed reports, this release was due earlier than '17. Some of the circulation pairs in 2016 appeared on the shelves, and then the most active collectors, but no one understood where and how they came from without official information. But in winter of '17 NIKE officially announced a new collaboration with ACRNM.
This model was a Downtown Hi version of the classic Air Force 1, which means a high silhouette of the shoe, premium materials, a limited line and a thinner and lighter sole. The collection also includes 3 colors, different texture of leather as the main material of the top, and a high neoprene sock. As in all other ACRNM x NIKE collaborations, the functional elements have their own identity and convey the spirit of the German brand. This collaboration received a front clasp "Spanish type buckle XV 5183", similar to which the Spanish and German army used in the last century. On the inside of the sock there is a YKK zipper in its full length. Thus, the whole pack has references to military aesthetics, which fully confirms the individual flow of ACRONYM.
Ph.: NIKE
User manual for ACRONYM x NIKELAB AIR FORCE 1 DOWNTOWN HI
In their vision when creating clothes, Errolson and the ACRNM team are inspired by various sci-Fi trends, contemporary art and futuristic motifs. Often on the Internet you can stumble upon photos of Hugh with famous personalities from these industries : William Gibson (writer, unofficial founder of the "cyberpunk" genre in sci-fi literature), Hideo Kojima (Japanese game designer, screenwriter and producer of computer games, the creator of the Metal Gear game series), AI Weiwei (Chinese contemporary artist and architect, founder and Director of "China Art Archive & Warehouse") and others. This release, in addition to its main product in the form of sneakers, marked the beginning of the creative component of all ACRNM x NIKE future launches.
Paul Pope – American animator from New-York. Also a well known artist and designer. Specializes in writing comics. His media clients include Diesel Industries, DKNY, LucasArts, Paramount Pictures, Cartoon Network, Marvel Comics, DC Comics, Conde-Naste, Kodansha (Japan), Sapporo (Japan), Marc Ecko, Dargaud Editions (France), EMI Canada, Warner Brothers, and the British Film Institute. He was awarded and nominated by many awards of his genre.
The release of the NIKE x ACRONYM Air Force 1 Downtown Hi SP collection is supported by a massive art background in the form of promo comics from Pole Pope.
The release of the NIKE x ACRONYM Air Force 1 Downtown Hi SP collection is supported by a massive art background in the form of promo comics from Pole Pope.
The video from HYPEBEAST TV in which Pole talks about his vision of the comic book industry, as well as working with Errolson on the NIKE x ACRNM project.
Release: December 2017.
As part of the AF100 project and the celebration of the 35th anniversary of the model, NIKE turned to 5 designers, each of whom made a great contribution to the development of culture around this model. One of them was definitely Errolson Hugh, who revolutionized modern fashion and developed his vision of iconic sneakers, released in 2015 and won the title of "Sneakers of the 2016 year".
Errolson and his team decided to make a completely white reissue of the model made of premium materials without changing the design. And it served as a kind of interactition with the fans of the model, as, in fact, the sneakers looked like a layout and they could be customized on your own. Many were carried away by this idea and used various technologies of dyeing thanks to which it is possible to see the most unusual shades of ACRONYM x NIKE LUNAR FORCE 1 from pink to dark graphite.
Errolson and his team decided to make a completely white reissue of the model made of premium materials without changing the design. And it served as a kind of interactition with the fans of the model, as, in fact, the sneakers looked like a layout and they could be customized on your own. Many were carried away by this idea and used various technologies of dyeing thanks to which it is possible to see the most unusual shades of ACRONYM x NIKE LUNAR FORCE 1 from pink to dark graphite.
Release: Spring 2017.
For the 2018 season, the ACRNM team, together with NIKE, decided to provide one of the most innovative silhouettes. Nike Air VaporMax Flyknit Moc 2 is a lightweight model with the most advanced cushioning system to date. Instead of laces in the middle of the shoe there is an elastic strap. The lightness of the sneaker is provided by Flyknit technology – elastic, but strong and durable material. About 6 recycled plastic bottles are used to create each pair of sneakers with this material, which helps to get rid of millions of kilograms of plastic from falling into landfills. Sneakers are released in three color variations 'Johnny's Icy Passage', 'the Illusional 'Ja', and 'Thirsty Bandit', inspired by the movie theme of classic westerns.
Editorial END.
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I know a lot of people are expecting us to add zippers and buckles and bolt on some parts, but we actually put those things on to change the function of the shoe. But you can already just slip on the VaporMax, so there was no reason to do that. So instead of effectively making ornamentation out of something technical, rather that going that route, we decided to look at it under a different lens and try to see, is there another way to push this as far, but using a different criteria, and trying to take it somewhere new with different tools. And that graphic is where we end up.
For the creative part of the collection a promo video was released with the participation of the popular American pop musician John Mayer and Errolson Hugh himself. The film is a mixture of the sci-fi genre with the classic Western, which caused dissonance among fans as a natural initial reaction to previous works of ACRNM x NIKE. The video was shown at the famous Los Feliz Theater in Los Angeles.
The video is also notable for the fact that motion designer and art director was a well-known Ash Thorp – illustrator, graphic designer and creative director for feature films, commercial marketing and printing, worked on the films decoration for "Blade Runner 2049", "Ghost in the Shell", "Prometheus", "X-Men" and others.
Release: September 2018.
The new Air Presto Mid collection combines both components of the main ACRNM criteria – form and function. Technical developments of the last release in the form of a double zipper on the ankle with a button on the heel, the sole of the DURALON and the mesh top of the sneakers are closely intertwined with the graphic component of the model in the form of the original identity of ACRONYM prints, logos of joint collaboration and bright colors.
TECHUNTER Media editorial.
The creative component of the collaboration is mainly a promotional video with the main slogan "Infinite Human Potential". The video serves as an introduction to Presto Corporation, where Hugh plays ERL.SN – an Android that serves as a metaphor for the innovation underlying brand collaboration.
The most important part of the video "Serial number" ERL.SN: ERLSN 09.2018, the allusion to the official release. Sneakers will go on sale September 20 at selected NIKELAB retailers.
TECHUNTER Media:
Author: Alexander Zabelin.
Editor: Ivan Dzhatiev.
Cover: Ruslan Yalilov.
Editorial: Тimur Caxar.
Layout: Tatyana Vasilenko.
Author: Alexander Zabelin.
Editor: Ivan Dzhatiev.
Cover: Ruslan Yalilov.
Editorial: Тimur Caxar.
Layout: Tatyana Vasilenko.
We did a joint project with NIKE, dedicated to the latest ACRONYM x NIKE collection. Exclusive posters and videos are available at the link.
