OTW by Vans installation during MILAN DESIGN WEEK 2025 [Interview]
We landed in Milano for MILAN DESIGN WEEK 2025, where the city buzzed with the pulse of innovation, art, and culture.
At the heart of it all, Vans unveiled the Old Skool 36 FM — a bold, future-facing reinterpretation of their iconic silhouette. As part of an immersive installation titled CHECKERED FUTURE: FREQUENCY MANIFEST, designed by the visionary Willo Perron with sonic atmosphere by Tim Hecker, Vans invited us into a space where design collided with sound, and heritage met next-gen thinking.
Set against the striking backdrop of the Triennale Milano, and featuring unforgettable performances by Björk, Vegyn, and Evissimax, the experience embodied Vans' ongoing commitment to pushing boundaries across fashion, music, and design.
While there, we caught up with Ian Ginoza, VP and Creative Director for OTW by Vans, and Dylan Petrenka, Senior Footwear Designer, to dive deep into Vans at MDW, the fusion of skateboarding and art, and the story behind the Old Skool 36 FM.
From tech details and design inspirations to future-forward thinking in skateboarding footwear, we asked what, why, how, and when.
Read on for the full conversation.
OTW by Vans installation during MILAN DESIGN WEEK 2025 [Interview]
We landed in Milano for MILAN DESIGN WEEK 2025, where the city buzzed with the pulse of innovation, art, and culture.
At the heart of it all, Vans unveiled the Old Skool 36 FM — a bold, future-facing reinterpretation of their iconic silhouette. As part of an immersive installation titled CHECKERED FUTURE: FREQUENCY MANIFEST, designed by the visionary Willo Perron with sonic atmosphere by Tim Hecker, Vans invited us into a space where design collided with sound, and heritage met next-gen thinking.
Set against the striking backdrop of the Triennale Milano, and featuring unforgettable performances by Björk, Vegyn, and Evissimax, the experience embodied Vans' ongoing commitment to pushing boundaries across fashion, music, and design.
While there, we caught up with Ian Ginoza, VP and Creative Director for OTW by Vans, and Dylan Petrenka, Senior Footwear Designer, to dive deep into Vans at MDW, the fusion of skateboarding and art, and the story behind the Old Skool 36 FM.
From tech details and design inspirations to future-forward thinking in skateboarding footwear, we asked what, why, how, and when.
Read on for the full conversation.
Ian Ginoza [Vans, Vice President & Creative Director OTW by Vans] on the installation by Willo Perron at Triennale Milano...
[Alright, so the question that's been ringing in my head before arriving here — and still is — why Vans is at the Milan Design Week?]
Ian Ginoza: We’re introducing a new platform called Future Make. At OTW by Vans, our mission is to push the boundaries of product and brand experiences.
Future Make is aligned with that mission, but it’s all about a forward-looking form of expression.
As you can see, this is a very different kind of footwear proposition. With this shoe, we felt that the culture and community of design here made this the perfect place to start that dialogue.
[Could you dive deeper into the concept behind the installation? Maybe share some insights not many people know about how it came together at the Triennale?]
I.G.: Sure. What you saw in the experience reflects the inspiration for the shoe — visual language rooted in architecture and the signatures of sound. Sound waves, frequencies, waveforms, sonic vibrations, and patterns — all of that informed the design cues of the shoe.
We tasked Willo Perron with bringing that inspiration to life. The installation is all about visualizing sound and those otherwise invisible elements.
[Yesterday I visited the installation of Christopher Raeburn, and the guy giving the tour said that a day ago, he was passing by the Triennale during the soundcheck. He thought, “What the hell is happening? Is this a rave by Vans or something?”]
I.G.: Yeah, totally. The sounds definitely play a big role. And actually, if you come to the event tonight, you'll experience another immersive sonic layer.
[Was there a specific feeling you wanted people to experience at the installation at Triennale? For me, at some point, it reminded me of Blade Runner or other futuristic films.]
I.G.: I love that. The key word for us was transformative. A lot of people throw that word around, but we really wanted the experience to take you somewhere — anywhere. It’s personal.
The emotions it evokes, the journey it puts you on — that’s what matters. If it takes you to a different mental space, then the mission is complete.
We tasked Willo Perron with bringing that inspiration to life. The installation is all about visualizing sound and those otherwise invisible elements.
[Yesterday I visited the installation of Christopher Raeburn, and the guy giving the tour said that a day ago, he was passing by the Triennale during the soundcheck. He thought, “What the hell is happening? Is this a rave by Vans or something?”]
I.G.: Yeah, totally. The sounds definitely play a big role. And actually, if you come to the event tonight, you'll experience another immersive sonic layer.
[Was there a specific feeling you wanted people to experience at the installation at Triennale? For me, at some point, it reminded me of Blade Runner or other futuristic films.]
I.G.: I love that. The key word for us was transformative. A lot of people throw that word around, but we really wanted the experience to take you somewhere — anywhere. It’s personal.
The emotions it evokes, the journey it puts you on — that’s what matters. If it takes you to a different mental space, then the mission is complete.
[Can we talk a bit more about the shoe itself? If I’m not mistaken, in a couple of years this model will celebrate its 50th anniversary — it was first made in 1977, right?]
I.G.: Exactly. This shoe currently represents 48 years of legacy. You're right — there are lots of new materials and technologies in play. What we’re doing through Future Make is similar to how the automotive industry creates concept cars.
This particular model, the Old Skool 36 FM, is our way of offering a new perspective on an iconic silhouette — showing what it could become. That’s the essence of the Future Make platform. This is just the first — our other icons will also be reimagined through this lens.
[What about the phrase Checkered Past, Checkered Future? That seems to tie everything together, especially when talking about legacy and innovation.]
I.G.: Definitely. That’s the overarching creative direction for OTW by Vans. When someone has a “checkered past,” it means they’ve taken risks, broken rules, and forged new paths. That’s embedded in Vans’ DNA — and it mirrors the original spirit of skateboarding.
Now we’re applying that same mindset to the future. Technology and design have evolved since the '70s, so we’re combining that bold spirit with today's tools and innovations.
[Do you see a trend of skateboarding increasingly blending with art and design? As someone without a deep background in skate culture, to me it feels like it's becoming more integrated into fashion and creative industries.]
I.G.: Yes, especially in fashion. The dialogue between skateboarding and fashion is fluid and ongoing. What draws people in is the style innovation within skateboarding. Even something as small as a shoelace belt comes from skate culture.
Skateboarders are inherently innovative — not just in how they ride, but in how they move through the world.
I like to say that skateboarders can see the invisible.
They’ll look at a bench and see a thousand possibilities, where someone else just sees a place to sit. That perspective is something we want to explore and amplify.
Dylan Petrenka [Vans, Design Director, Footwear (Pinnacle)] on the Old Skool 36 FM and skateboarding footwear design...
[Let’s dive into tech first. What have you put in there?]
Dylan Petrenka:So when I talk about the tech in a shoe, I usually start from the ground up.
The rubber cupsole itself has this unique matrix pattern that kind of holds into the inside and matches the flex grooves on the outsole. The tread pattern is engineered zone by zone into the cupsole — and that was a pretty painstaking process, wrapping everything evenly around the surface. We used computational design to figure out the flex grooves, but each zone of the tread was placed individually.
Then the cupsole is constructed with two stitches, which allows it to be disassembled at end-of-life — so the user can kind of decide the product’s fate.
Above that, we wanted to extend the rubber expression — so there’s a rubber toe cap and a rubber heel panel. That was all about emphasizing durability.
Then above the cupsole, there’s an EVA strobel. Strobel board is basically the base of the upper that connects to the insole, and the foam layer there has a different durometer than the insole — so you're getting a layered comfort system.
The insole itself is 30% bio-based polyurethane, really focused on all-day comfort. We know our consumers are on their feet a lot — commuting, working, social life — so we really designed for that all-day wear.
[Right, that urban lifestyle.]
D.P.: Exactly. The upper is made of two engineered knit pieces, knit to pattern. The zones on those were focused on breathability — kind of contrasting the robust outsole. The tongue construction is interesting too — it actually oversits the upper, so it doesn’t fall into the outsole. And the lacing system goes through the rubber toe cap and up to a 3D-injected TPU piece on each quarter panel. The lace itself is round to fit that system. Component-wise, the shoe is pretty simple — but it’s really about how everything came together. Oh, and the lining — we focused on a really soft, tactile material there too.
[Awesome. So, if you were to break it down — in terms of style versus performance — what’s the ratio in this shoe?]
D.P.: It’s built as a lifestyle shoe, but with performance benefits integrated. So, the performance aspects — things like comfort, durability — are drawn from our skateboarding shoes. But the focus here is on lifestyle.
The insole itself is 30% bio-based polyurethane, really focused on all-day comfort. We know our consumers are on their feet a lot — commuting, working, social life — so we really designed for that all-day wear.
[Right, that urban lifestyle.]
D.P.: Exactly. The upper is made of two engineered knit pieces, knit to pattern. The zones on those were focused on breathability — kind of contrasting the robust outsole. The tongue construction is interesting too — it actually oversits the upper, so it doesn’t fall into the outsole. And the lacing system goes through the rubber toe cap and up to a 3D-injected TPU piece on each quarter panel. The lace itself is round to fit that system. Component-wise, the shoe is pretty simple — but it’s really about how everything came together. Oh, and the lining — we focused on a really soft, tactile material there too.
[Awesome. So, if you were to break it down — in terms of style versus performance — what’s the ratio in this shoe?]
D.P.: It’s built as a lifestyle shoe, but with performance benefits integrated. So, the performance aspects — things like comfort, durability — are drawn from our skateboarding shoes. But the focus here is on lifestyle.
[And what would you say are the most important performance functions in skateboarding footwear?]
D.P.: Not for this shoe specifically, but in general: for skateboarding, it really depends on the skater. Some prioritize durability, some prioritize grip, others care most about board feel.
It also depends on age — younger skaters might care more about feel, while older skaters might prioritize cushioning. Personally, I’d say board feel and durability are the top two — if the shoe isn’t durable, it gets destroyed, and if there’s no board feel, you lose connection with your board.
[What do you see as the next innovations in skateboarding footwear, especially to increase durability?]
D.P.: We have a dedicated team for that at Vans, so they’re really the experts, but from my own view — durability often contradicts other needs, like breathability. Mesh against grip tape just doesn’t last.
Same goes for cushioning and board feel — cushioning helps with high impact, but too much of it dulls the connection with the board. So the goal is to find materials or foams that bring those conflicting needs closer together — breathable but durable, cushioned but responsive.
That’s where the next breakthroughs probably lie.
[Makes total sense. Okay, and one last question — I asked Ian something similar and wanted to hear your thoughts as well: do you think there’s a trend in skateboarding footwear toward more visually expressive, design-forward styles?]
D.P.: Yeah, I think there's definitely a trend, but it spans a spectrum. On one end, you have completely classic, heritage styles. On the other, you’ve got a futuristic, expressive design.
And I think both are relevant — even for the same person. One day I want to wear something classic, the next something contemporary. Social media and globalization have exposed us to so many styles — it’s fun to mix it up.
I’m inspired by people who approach style like a paintbrush. They play between the ends of that spectrum, mixing pants cuts, silhouettes, and shoes. It’s great to have that freedom of choice.
[Totally. Especially in today’s world — having choices feels more important than ever.]
D.P.: Exactly.
We always appreciate seeing innovation and contemporary design push into every corner of modern apparel and footwear — and it’s exciting to see skateboarding becoming a bigger part of that conversation. Milan Design Week is a playground for visual creators, packed with inspiration, ideas, and deeper meaning at every turn — if you ever get the chance, we highly recommend experiencing it for yourself.
As for the shoes? The Old Skool 36 FM is already available worldwide via Vans’ official website and selected retailers.
Article and images prepared by TECHUNTER Magazine.*
Answers: Ian Ginoza [Vans, Vice President & Creative Director OTW by Vans], Dylan Petrenka [Vans, Design Director, Footwear (Pinnacle)]. Questions, words, photography: Alexander Zabelin [TECHUNTER, chief editor]. Special thanks: RADICAL PR.
*All images above, as well as those on every page of this website, are the property of TECHUNTER Media and may not be used, reproduced, or distributed without explicit permission from the source.