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ACRONYM S/S 18
The spring-summer 18' collection from the ACRONYM team left quite a bit of noise with its release, stretching in the time frame of a little more than six months. One of the most pretentious, provocative, experimental and discussed collections of Errolson Hugh was overviewed by us in each of its separately published parts. Now, we put it together and updated the design of the article, so you do not miss anything extra.
Here is a full review on ACRNM S/S 18.
Here is a full review on ACRNM S/S 18.
[PART I]
[PART I]
At January 30, without any announces, already as a rule, at official ACRИM site appared the first part of Spring/Summer 2018 collection. In order not to postpone the review of such an actual event, we decided to survey it also by pieces, as Berlin innovators.
So, the first drop included 2 jackets [J47A-WS, J53TS-GT] and re-release of bags and accessories [3A-3TS, 3A-MZ3, 3A-MZ5].
So, the first drop included 2 jackets [J47A-WS, J53TS-GT] and re-release of bags and accessories [3A-3TS, 3A-MZ3, 3A-MZ5].
J47A-WS
Re-released J47A with new material – 2-layer GORE WINDSTOPPER® Active Shell™ [53% PA, 47% ePTFE].
The material is remarkable of it's featherweight
[363 grams in M size, with all removable parts], self stows
into its Tec Sys [MOLLE system] mountable left chest pocket,
but it has all the necessary functional features: windproof,
water repellent and breathes perfectly.
Features: folding hood, Velcro-patches with logo and magnets for headphones [ACRONYM® SOUNDǽ, shapes and customize adaptability.
Everything is in your hands.
J53TS-GT
Re-release of trench-coat made of Gore-Tex ® Pro [70% PA, 30% ePTFE] next generation technology [up to 28% more breathability compared to previous generation Gore-Tex® Pro products.].
Equipped with ǍCROŇYM ® INTEROPSǽ jacket/bag compatibility system, ǍCROŇYM® SOUNDǽ patches and ǍCROŇYM® TEC SYS MOLLE system.
Finally, we note the preview of new pants: P30-CH [left] and P22-S [right].
[PART II]
[PART II]
The second part of the spring/summer 2018 collection release by Errolson and the team. This part includes only 3 models: new JA1-GTPL jacket and S21-DS hoodie, as well as the reissue of P10-S.
JA1-GTPL
Is an updated design JA1 – the first jacket from 2001 released by ACRNM in the composition of the ACR KIT1, first available pack from the Berlin innovators. This redesign has received a two-tone colorway in black and olive colors, as well as a new material – a two-layer GORE-TEX Paclite with PA 71%, ePTFE 29% compound.
By the way, the jacket cost around 1800 euros (actually, we don't have time to know the price!) and was sold within 5 minutes after the release.
By the way, the jacket cost around 1800 euros (actually, we don't have time to know the price!) and was sold within 5 minutes after the release.
S21-DS x P10-S
The last 2 elements are P10-S pants (in two colors) and S21-DS hoodie, made of high-density gabardine and cotton, respectively. Materials both made in Switzerland, probably that is why the models has this prices: 1187 euros for the pants and 853 euros for a hoodie. Pants have the form of "motocross" pants, water- and windproof, and also come with a carabiner. A sweatshirt is equipped with a JacketSling system, and also has 6 internal and external pockets.
You may also notice a few new things that are supposed to come out in future parts of the collection. Among them:
J1A-GTV
J66-GT
SP28TS-DS
[PART III]
[PART III]
Today was released the third part of the spring-summer 18 collection from Errolson and the team. Apparently, E. decided to distribute his releases in a dosed manner to prolong the general atmosphere of excitement and discussion around the world. Although we can not exclude the problems with the supply, as he has repeatedly stated via the social media.
In this part we can see 4 items of clothing: the new model J66-GT in two colors, the classic J1A-GT of the second generation in bright volt-color and P10-DS from Dryskin by Schoeller. It is worth noting experiments with the processing of fabrics and the new color of the collection, but everything in order.
In this part we can see 4 items of clothing: the new model J66-GT in two colors, the classic J1A-GT of the second generation in bright volt-color and P10-DS from Dryskin by Schoeller. It is worth noting experiments with the processing of fabrics and the new color of the collection, but everything in order.
J66-GT
The new model is made of three-layer Gore-Tex Pro of the latest generation with MICROGRID® Backer and 70% PA, 30% ePTFE structure. In front, there are two cargo pockets with 3 storage locations and numerous variations of access to them. Updated hood design in with a peripheral vision and a one-handed shockcord cinch at the back of the hood. Remarkable reverse soldering seams, the so-called deconstructive design, through which, according to the developers, emphasizes the articulation and fray with age. And it will not be a defect if you find a strong wear and want to return the jacket by marriage.
The price for this model is 1,595.00 EUR
The price for this model is 1,595.00 EUR
J66-GTV
This model is also available in a bright light green [VOLT] color, made of 2.5-layer Gore-Tex fabric with an outer fabric structure of 100% polyester and ePTFE membrane. Inner lining with polymer dots and the same contrasting seams with fabric from a light green thread. The developers also warn that due to the industrial nature of this fabric, as well as its bright shade of color, some spots may not be possible to remove by cleaning.
The price for this model is 1,429.00 EUR.
The price for this model is 1,429.00 EUR.
P10-DS
Inspired by the uniform of motocross athletes, P10 pants got a variation in the schoeller® 3XDRY® DRYSKIN™ material with a fabric composition of 65% PA, 26% PA Micro, 9% EL.
A classic reissue of J1A-GT in the second generation also received updated material and volt color, though without experiments with raw "processing" seams. The price for this piece was 1,889.00 EUR and there is a sold-out within a few minutes after release.
And finally, we see new and unreleased models that are likely to come out in the next part of the collection. We continue to follow the updates and innovations from ACRNM.
[part IV]
[PART IV]
The fourth part of the spring-summer ACRNM '18 collection in the midst of summer. It includes three models of jackets and one pants model made of two types of materials. In addition to the overview, we have a version of why this collection is so much fragmented
A new design inspired by the biker jacket, but, according to the developers, has nothing to do with it. The model is made of next-generation Gore-Tex Pro with MICROGRID Backer and fully taped seams. It has a folding collar, profile anatomical cut, 2 external and 2 internal pockets. It is quite light in weight [Size M: 369 grams]. Jacket is equipped with: fast quilting zip [ForceLockǽ], a sling for independent carry [JacketSlingǽ], velcro-patches with the built-in headphone magnets [ǍCROŇYM SOUNDǽ]. Hoodless.
Price: 1,294.00 EUR.
Price: 1,294.00 EUR.
An interesting point we want to focus your attention on.
The main experiment of this collection is a new version of the clothing cut. When cutting materials for the layout, the edges of ready-made fabrics are not processed for further use in the assembly. This emphasizes the raw texture, giving the edges a sharp look and, after some time using, naturally aging and disheveling. The carelessness and "imperfection" of the final products is a kind of stroke of some modern designers, and the guys from the ACR team are gradually moving in this new direction. But, it is worth noting their courage, as well as the trust of GORE-TEX, which allows to experiment with high-tech materials and bring such experience to the final.
The main experiment of this collection is a new version of the clothing cut. When cutting materials for the layout, the edges of ready-made fabrics are not processed for further use in the assembly. This emphasizes the raw texture, giving the edges a sharp look and, after some time using, naturally aging and disheveling. The carelessness and "imperfection" of the final products is a kind of stroke of some modern designers, and the guys from the ACR team are gradually moving in this new direction. But, it is worth noting their courage, as well as the trust of GORE-TEX, which allows to experiment with high-tech materials and bring such experience to the final.
We dare to put forward a version that the delay and divide of the collection are related to this point, as well as product testing. Below you can compare photos before and after wearing.
On the left – new product.
On the right – product, after 3-month of wear.
On the left – new product.
On the right – product, after 3-month of wear.
In this part of the collection we see 2 new models of bombers [redesigned MA1 silhouettes, US Air Force pilot jackets].
J73-WS
Lightweight summer bomber jacket with double-layer GORE WINDSTOPPER Active Shell (composition 53% PA, 47% for ePTFE) with front chest cargo pockets, mesh cuffs and a sling for independent socks [JacketSlingǽ].
Price: 1,320.00 EUR.
Price: 1,320.00 EUR.
J59TS-CH
Smooth, loose oversized-bomber to hide any internal content, whether it's modular pockets, middle layers or something else.
Made in Switzerland [probably Schoeller] from a synthetic copolymer with cotton weave and aramid fiber threads providing breathability, waterproofness, wear resistance and 4-way stretch.
Equipped with a modular mounting system of accessories [ǍCROŇYM TEC-SYS], a sling for independent carry [JacketSlingǽ], two outer and two inner pockets, and a drawcord at the waistband.
Price: 1,474.00 EUR.
Made in Switzerland [probably Schoeller] from a synthetic copolymer with cotton weave and aramid fiber threads providing breathability, waterproofness, wear resistance and 4-way stretch.
Equipped with a modular mounting system of accessories [ǍCROŇYM TEC-SYS], a sling for independent carry [JacketSlingǽ], two outer and two inner pockets, and a drawcord at the waistband.
Price: 1,474.00 EUR.
According to the developers, "the most comfortable cargo pants we have ever made."
Very loose, wide, cargo pants with an offset to the bottom of the inguinal seam for minimal movement resistance, with 3/4 length, 12 pockets, articulated knees and updated adjustable belt. Pants are oversized, so for the selection of size, use the measurement system at the official site.
The model comes in two versions of materials:schoeller® 3XDRY® DRYSKIN™ and INDUSTRIAL MICRO TWILL, both made in Switzerland.
Very loose, wide, cargo pants with an offset to the bottom of the inguinal seam for minimal movement resistance, with 3/4 length, 12 pockets, articulated knees and updated adjustable belt. Pants are oversized, so for the selection of size, use the measurement system at the official site.
The model comes in two versions of materials:schoeller® 3XDRY® DRYSKIN™ and INDUSTRIAL MICRO TWILL, both made in Switzerland.
[PART V]
[PART V]
A new modular silhouette as the middle layer, inspired by the traditional Japanese kimono. Made of high-density Swiss jersey with a composition of 65% PA, 29% PA Micro, 6% EL. By the way, this material is used in all models of this collection part. This type of fabric is lightweight, resistant to abrasion, water repellent, 4-way stretch and quick-drying, that is ideal for the summer season.
The model is equipped with two external side pockets, the ShirtSlingǽ and AuxZipǽ system, thanks to which you can fasten the hood or the outer layer jacket to it.
P27-DS
S8-DS
S21-DS
ACR does not stop at the re-release of its most popular models. In this drop, we see P27-DS pants, S8-DS jersey and also the new S21-DS hoodie.
Pants, according to Hugh, "slightly different from the P25, in a reduced volume and length, without loss of mobility." Hoody also complements the summer drop in choosing a silhouette for a cold time of the day.
All models are made from the same high-density Swiss jersey, which we wrote about above. Each element is "next-to-skin" functional, which means direct contact with the owner's skin and, accordingly, provides all the necessary needs for this..
Pants, according to Hugh, "slightly different from the P25, in a reduced volume and length, without loss of mobility." Hoody also complements the summer drop in choosing a silhouette for a cold time of the day.
All models are made from the same high-density Swiss jersey, which we wrote about above. Each element is "next-to-skin" functional, which means direct contact with the owner's skin and, accordingly, provides all the necessary needs for this..
SP28TS-DS
A new model that definitely deserves attention are these SP28TS-DS shorts.
This silhouette is the most adapted for the summer season and any kind of activities during this period. Like the P27, it has a built-in adjustable belt, 6 outer and 2 inner deep pockets, and an understated inguinal seam for the maximum possible freedom of movement that Mr. Hugh has been seeking since the very foundation of ACRONYM.
The shorts are notable for equipping the TEC-SYS system over the entire length of the belt with two rows of 27 channels. With this decision in principle, it is worth forgetting the release of waist bags by other brands in view of their uselessness. It is enough to see the picture below to understand what it is about.
The shorts are notable for equipping the TEC-SYS system over the entire length of the belt with two rows of 27 channels. With this decision in principle, it is worth forgetting the release of waist bags by other brands in view of their uselessness. It is enough to see the picture below to understand what it is about.
[PART VI]
[PART VI]
An improved version of the classic "rider" jacket,
re-designed from scratch.
New design of zippers, allowing to have a large number of wearing variations. 3 exterior pouch pockets.
The jacket is made of wear-resistant military specification cotton-gabardine weave material, manufactured in Switzerland. Wear-resistant, breathable, wind- and waterproof.
he jacket is traditionally equipped with the main conceptual developments and additions from ACRONYM: ǍCROŇYM SOUNDǽ, ForceLockǽ, JacketSlingǽ. We wrote about them
in the previous review parts of the collection.
Price : 1,410.00 EUR.
Only 3 color variations.
The new silhouette of trousers, with 3/4 length, lowered inguinal seam, deep pockets and a built-in adjustable belt. The model is available in two variations : P22-DS from schoeller® Dryskin™ in black and P22-S in wear-resistant military specification cotton-gabardine weave, produced in Switzerland, in black and khaki colors.
Price : 1,028.00 EUR and 1,030.00 EUR.
Price : 1,028.00 EUR and 1,030.00 EUR.
This was one of the most experimental, long, interesting and provocative collections from the Errolson's team. We would like to thank all of their team for the constant development and innovation in our industry, without which there will be no further progress.
