JH: Here is one of my absolute favorites. This is Maharishi, from around 1996, I think. It is like a monk's robe out of some kind of rubberized fabric. It is not super breathable, but I really like the style, and Maharishi was the first to do these sorts of things.

This is GORE-TEX Windstopper. When this came out, everyone had one. Eddie Cruz from Undefeated came to Berlin – he was wearing this jacket. Really, when it came out, you'd see people – obviously part of a certain clique so to say – wearing it. They had it in black, but also in camouflage.

Do you know Kazuki Kuraishi? He designed the logos for this. This is GORE-TEX, as you can see here, on the inside.

This is Harris Tweed with GORE-TEX.

[TH: Such a good combo, with the wool inside…]

It looks good, but it does not make a lot of sense, because this soaks up water, which it should not, as it will get very heavy. There is usually DWR on the face fabric, so water just rinses off, but here it is like a sponge. I think they might have only shipped two to Europe because it was quite a special piece and very expensive at retail.

[We wonder why… But the combo itself, the material combination. What article is here? GORE-TEX Pro?]

No, Pro was later, I think Errolson was one of the first ones to use Pro on one of his jackets. They always gave him new stuff early to experiment with. Also XCR, I remember.

[Yeah, we have a The North Face XCR, Summit series-something. Still good to keep the water out, for like 23 years now. Oldschool.]

Yeah, nothing will happen unless you puncture the membrane.

Not sure if you saw an explanation for this at any point in time. Some of his jackets have this extra sleeve, that you could buy a pocket fort, that you could slide under.

[Army style. Do you know who has those rebuilt Japanese military garments that he made? (Referring to the ACRONYM J45M-BW).]

Yeah, there are five or six of them. I remember I was there and I saw them hanging. Wanted to keep one, but I had to give them back.

[We'd come in and just throw our credit cards to whoever has it.]

I think one sold, I'm not sure if it was real, but it was about 15.000 USD.

Visvim really does the craziest stuff. This is Oltolina, an Italian shirt fabric. And, again, they probably went to the factory and said: "Can we laminate shirt fabric?" – "Yeah, sure, we can, but should we?…"

On this note, Off-White at one point made GORE shorts. We were wondering: "Should we tell them?" – "Nah". They turned the fabric inside out, because they liked the inside look better than the face fabric, by the way. *laughs*

I have another rare camo GORE-TEX jacket at home, which is Visvim camouflage. But this is also super rare, especially in XL.

[Everything in XL is super rare.]

Yeah *laughs*. I had to go to Japan three times before WTAPS offered to purchase the collection for the shop. They said: "Please come, we will show you the collection", and in the end, they were "oh sorry, you can't order it for the shop, but you can put in a personal order". Alright, I don't care, as long as I get one for myself.

….I got this from a guy in Russia. I had this in my shop back in the day, actually. I did not keep one for myself. And then I just kind of kept regretting it.

["I need it"!]

Yeah! And then I just found it on Grailed. The guy did not really take any good pictures, so when the jacket arrived I saw that the cuffs were worn through and I was shocked. I have worn my jackets a lot, but this never happened to any of mine. And it's a three-layer construction, as you can see here, there is a bit of something white between the layers, so this is waterproof.

[What was the name of that guy?]

You'll find him for me, yeah? *laughs*. No, we are all good, I mean the price was alright.

We launched this one here, having a one-day workshop. We did a setup here, and people had to apply to come in for a one-hour slot to see these and talk to Errolson and do interviews with people from Gore on their first impression.

[How long have you been here in this space?]

Since 2015.

[And it was launched in late '15, wasn't it?]

No-no, this was late 2016. We had applications from all over the world. And we were like "Really?". Because we could not pay for the flights, anything. On the day two guys came from London, Amsterdam, and one dude came from San Francisco. He said his dad was a pilot, so he got the flight really cheap.

[It was so impressive to see this texture on a jacket. Especially on all the promo materials, it was well presented visually.]

But they could not really explain what it was. And when this came up, there was a lot of chatter that it was SHAKEDRY™, which is just the membrane, that this was not. The term INFINIUM™ (what it was) was introduced a bit later.

[It looks like leather…]

Yeah, that's what people call it. And it has zero water pickup, so you put a drop on it and it just sits there until you shake it, so it does not go through. Yet, not all of the seams are taped, so it isn't fully waterproof.

INFINIUM™ is not a material, it is a product range. You see a lot of it at EASTLOGUE, and a lot of the brands using it are Japanese and Korean. It can be a regular three-layer membrane fabric, but you are allowed to use any factory to make it. Does not have to be a GORE-TEX licensed factory, because they do not seam-tape it.

This is a very (very!) special item. It's the first GORE-TEX jacket by Palace and it was produced for the opening of their New York store. There are 10 different patterns of this patchwork design and only 5 pcs per pattern. So one of the most limited and rare jackets out there. It features all different kinds of GORE-TEX fabrics and also one that's actually military…

We were a bit worried at one point as some of the camouflage patterns cannot be exported.